In addition to the allergic reaction test, the following should be analyzed before staining.
1. If the hair has been dyed before (no matter what the household or professional dye, henna or toner is), it should not be dyed lighter. In addition to spoiling your hair, you'll never get anywhere near it.
Paint does not brighten the paint! Never and under no circumstances!
Compositions of dyes are calculated on "work" with a natural pigment of hair, for clarification of the artificial pigments which have been earlier "introduced" in hair at coloring, special preparations ("washings") or blocking means (powder or paste) are used.
Still no. The matter is that after strong alkaline influence (clarification) scales of the cuticle can not lie so smoothly, as on a natural hair. Hairdressers in such cases like to give an analogy with the bumps - "closed" bump - normal, not colored hair, "open" bump - colored (lightened).
So, under the scales of the cuticle (open bumps) after clarification "stuffed" pigments from the environment, in particular, dirt and rusty particles of tap water and get stuck there, creating a grayish-yellowish darkish shade.
2. The second thing worth paying attention to before dyeing is the thickness and porosity of the hair.
Fine hair has a thinner cuticle, it is easier and faster to discolor, at the maximum percentage of oxide (12%) it is possible to lighten up to 5 levels. Thick and hard hair contains a lot of pigment and is difficult to lighten. Even with 12% oxide, such hair is not "stretched" more than 3 levels higher.
Strongly porous hair (e.g. curly hair) absorbs more dye, which should be considered when diluting the dye.
The amount of mixture you will need for dyeing is an individual value. As an example, I can say that I need 90 ml of the mixture (30 ml of dye and 60 ml of oxide) for thin and thin hair for dyeing only the root zone (not more than 1 cm).
In order to make the hair lighten evenly, it is necessary:
- To make the mixture a dense layer of coating of the colored area of hair;
- When dyeing "roots" it is necessary to have a grown length of no more than 1 cm. (The root zone is lightened more intensively due to the heat coming from the scalp and relatively young keratin in this part);
- to minimize the risk of damage to the previously colored length;
- Do not cover the head with anything during dyeing, the hair should have constant contact with the air;
- Adhere to the exact time of dyeing according to the instructions. In hair dyeing, there are no concepts of "hold longer" or "wash early" (except for the work with powder clarifier, for which a competent master is needed).
If you have sensitive scalp and/or are going to dye your hair with oxide above 6%, it is worth applying special protection to your scalp. What it is and what it looks like, I wrote in detail in another article
More about pigments
Melanin granules in natural hair are of two types, both of which are available to every person. Their ratio explains the differences in natural hair color.
Brown-black pigment (eumelanin). Depending on the amount of this pigment present in the hair, the hair color varies from light blue to dark brown, black.
Red pigment (pheomelanin). These are pigmented grains of red color, they are usually much less than black-brown pigments. They are responsible for light brown and red hair.
Brown-black and red pigments behave differently when they are lightened:
- 1) Brown-black pigment can be lightened and is much easier to break down than red pigment, which is persistent enough to stay in the hair. Even with more lightening, the hair will still have a "golden shine" due to the presence of red pigment residues. When oxygen affects the natural pigment of the hair, black pigment (eumelanin) is destroyed, but red pigment (pheomelanin) is not. It "boils", forming an orange color. This process leads to the appearance of a so-called background of clarification.
- 2) The black color of eumelanin consists of three colors: blue+red+yellow. Blue pigment - the most unstable and at clarification, it is destroyed first. Then the red pigment is destroyed, and the last one is yellow. That's why hair color always turns out to be warm, "with a yolk" when dyeing into blond.
When dyeing with persistent dye, no matter what shade you are dyeing and what percentage of oxide, the background of clarification is always there!
Since there are not many artificial pigments in the high-level paint (the more pigments the darker the color), the background of clarification is not "clogged" with them and "appears".