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All about hair and skin health

What you need to know about the blonde

https://pixabay.com/images/id-1919143/
https://pixabay.com/images/id-1919143/

Even if you are sure that blonde will suit you, you should take into account that lightening is a complicated process and the chances of getting a burnt oak instead of a gorgeous shiny mane on your head is quite great, no matter whether you decide to lighten your hair on your own or in the salon with huge price tags.

Besideslarification is harmful to the hair and they will have to be taken care of much more carefully than before.

If all these difficulties do not frighten you, let's get down to business.

Hair dyeing (including hair bleaching) is a process designed to change the natural hair color, ie, the composition of melanin molecules, which was given from birth.

There are two types of professional tools to brighten natural hair pigments: durable dyes and bleaching agents.

Persistent (permanent dyes). In a palette of any manufacturer for clarification are created 11 and 12 rows of dyes, they are called super-brightening (high lift). They are designed exclusively for "working" with natural (previously not colored) hair.

In the process of dyeing with persistent ammonia dye, which is a part of the dye, creates an alkaline environment, cuticle scales in this environment "open", and oxygen emitted by oxidizer (oxide) brightens (oxidizes) the natural hair pigment and "manifests" artificial pigments that are in the dye. They polymerize, increasing in many times, and are fixed in the internal cavities (cavities) of the hair.

Bleaching products exist in the form of powder (soup) or paste (cream). With the help of this type of products, it is possible to lighten both natural and previously colored hair up to 7-8 levels. In this case, artificial pigments are not added to the structure of the hair, natural pigments are completely destroyed.

One of the most common questions about the clarification of what I have seen is:

"What's more harmful, paint clarification on high oxide or powder on low?

Let's try to figure it out.

What is oxide?

The oxide (oxidizer) consists primarily of hydrogen peroxide, which decomposes into water and atomic oxygen under the influence of air and heat. In the process of staining, some of the oxygen released is used to produce artificial pigments (in the case of paint), while others are used to lighten the initial (natural) pigment. In the case of powder, all oxygen is used for clarification.

The higher the percentage of oxide, the more oxygen is emitted during the staining process and (since the amount of oxygen required for pigment development is the same in any case) the more oxygen is used for clarification.

In order for oxygen to "work" inside the hair, it must be "placed" there, i.e., so that it penetrates the structure of the cortex. To do this, it is necessary to create an alkaline environment in which the hair "swells" and the cuticle scales "open".

When using the dye, ammonia serves as the "creator" of the alkaline medium, and in the case of powder, persulfates and alkaline buffers. Potassium persulfate is the most common persulfate, which is a part of almost all powders. When mixed with an oxidizer, it also produces ammonia.

The main harm to hair clarification is the shift of normal pH of the hair to the alkaline side.

Normal pH of hair is from 4 to 5.5 (slightly acidic). In fact, it is not the pH of the hair (solids have no pH value, it is only present in a solution or melt), but the pH of the hydrolipid layer of the skin (products of the secretion of sebum and sweat glands, microflora (bacteria and fungi)), "combed" on the hair.

Any dye, designed to consistently dye the hair (including lighten), or a bleaching agent in one way or another create a highly alkaline environment.

Alkali harms hair much more than acids (and any oxide has an acidic pH): try to treat half of your hair with alkali solution and the other half with lemon juice and you will see clearly which half will have to be cut off.

In an alkaline environment, the hair swells, the cuticle scales open, are easily damaged, and in an acid environment, the scales close.

Given that the farther the hair is from its normal pH value, the more damaging it is to the hair (if the pH value is greater than 14 or less than 0 the hair is completely destroyed), the answer to the question "Powder or dye?" can only be one: unequivocally, the dye.

However, if you want to lighten your hair more than 4-5 levels (for example, you have almost black hair, and you want blond hair like Aguillera), then there are no options - just bleaching products. Whether to pay for a chance to become blonde to someone who is contraindicated by nature, the question is always open.

All the experiments on this part are closed to me, especially since if there is nothing "military" in the hair lightening with the help of dye, then the powder is not like that anymore. Here you need a highly qualified specialist to visually assess the stage of reaction on the hair and wash away the composition of the hair faster than he "burns" the hair.