Often, beginners who are just starting to explore the fashion industry are usually interested in those who are typically in the spotlight — designers, art directors, and perhaps top models. The modeling business became particularly popular and, arguably, relatively transparent in the 2000s thanks to shows like ANTP and its counterparts in various countries. Everyone dreaming of entering modeling has long known about modeling agencies and castings; the question is only how to get into a top mother agency and start opening shows for big brands.
However, trends on the runway are set not only by designers creating clothing and models showcasing these outfits but also by makeup artists, usually standing behind the scenes in the literal sense of the word.
Not far from famous hotel Plaza Athene on the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week, we managed to catch up with Tati Thunder, a NYC based make up-artist with over 10 years of experience in the industry. During this time, she has graced the covers of Vogue Portugal, worked at Fashion Weeks in Paris and Milan as part of Kabuki's team, and contributed to the Cannes Film Festival. We decided to ask Tati why fashion weeks are essential for makeup artists and how to break into the most elite teams.
— Tell us, are there any specialized agencies that help makeup artists get into fashion weeks?
In the United States, there is a website called models.com, which provides all the information about the designers, art directors, and publicists you need. In general, it covers everyone working in the fashion industry. This website is very important to me for finding the right people, models.com is like a Wikipedia for the fashion industry.
Usually, I check the schedule for Fashion Week, which is available a month before the shows begin. Then, I identify the brands I would like to work with. After that, I visit models.com, look for the team that worked on the previous show, and simply try to find the contact email of the makeup artist or their agent. In the wake of, the endless sending of portfolio emails and presentations begins. This is how I approach every show.
— What specifically you do for your promotion?
I do everything I can: attend events, network, try to do makeup for as many people as possible to increase the chances of being recommended as an artist. And emails are a crucial part of my work. I dedicate 2-3 hours to this daily, write non-stop, and knock on all the doors that interest me.
— How you can participate in Fashion Week as a makeup artist?
One of the most obvious ways is to work for a brand. By the way, if you're already working for a brand, they often actively recruit teams for shows, thus encouraging your personal growth within the company. To participate in a brand's runway show, you usually need to spend a certain amount of time working there, get a certificate, and then the brand will invite you to participate in the show for the season.
If you're not currently working for a brand or don't want to, you can reach out to the main offices of cosmetic brands that participate in runway shows, such as MAC or Tom Ford, and offer your services.
To understand where it's most relevant to reach out, simply check which cosmetic brands are sponsors of Fashion Weeks. Often, these include MAC, L'Oreal, or Kilian Paris. By the way, I recently worked with Kilian at the last Paris Fashion Week.
— How much do makeup artists typically earn for fashion shows?
Fashion shows are not primarily about the money; makeup artists usually earn between €150 and €300. However, it's crucial to understand the context of your involvement in Fashion Week. For instance, if you are part of a brand's team and handle 3-4 shows a day, it's possible to earn around €1000 per day. On the other hand, if you're a freelancer, it's better to focus on finding private clients invited to after-parties and street style events to avoid going into a financial loss.
In the initial stages, it's important to strive for your trips to Fashion Weeks to at least break even.
— What are the advantages of working at a fashion show?
It's about connections, building your portfolio, and the opportunity to test products that will only be released in the next season. The participation of many brands in fashion shows serves as a marketing strategy. This way, they promote their makeup collections, which will be launched for sale in the next season.
— Can a makeup artist use work from Fashion Week in their portfolio?
Mostly, no. You can only mention in your presentation the teams and shows you've worked on, but it's better not to attach photos or videos.
To be honest, veteran makeup artists don't particularly appreciate artists from social media platforms like TikTok or Instagram, so a makeup artist-blogger is unlikely to appear at a show as a professional team member. Also, if you want to document anything, it's better to clarify during the team selection whether you can capture behind-the-scenes moments; otherwise, you might be excluded or not invited for the next season. I've experienced this before.
— Tell us about your most successful cases during Fashion Week?
So far, my portfolio includes participation in only two Fashion Weeks: Paris and Milan, so I don't have extensive experience. However, in February, for example, I worked on the Moschino show in Milan, collaborating with Kabuki — I was his second assistant.
— What advice would you give to strong makeup artists living in small cities who dream of participating in Fashion Week?
It may sound cliché, but actively manage your social media presence. Yes, I mentioned that there are hardly any makeup artist-bloggers among the show team members, but social media is essential for increasing your visibility and connecting with the right people. And emails! Write as many as you can!