Sukajan jackets Also known as “souvenir jackets” or “rebel jackets”, sukajan (スカジャン) are garments with a rich transnational history. From the port city of Yokosuka to Hollywood, this cool jacket is definitely not to be missed. And until now it is still found in the collections of various streetwear and well-known brands.
The History of Sukajan Jackets
Post-World War II Era
Sukajan jacket is believed to have originated from Japan, the name Sukajan itself comes from a combination of two syllables namely 'suka' (すか) which comes from the word Yokosuka, a naval base city in Japan and the word 'jan' (じゃん) which is short for janpaa which means jumpers.
Located in Kanagawa prefecture, Yokosuka was one of Japan's first naval bases and hosted the United States Seventh Fleet of the Pacific Theater during the Second World War. As their occupation drew to a close, many American soldiers wanted something to commemorate their time there.
They ended up making a jacket out of parachute scraps and embellishing it with a kimono-style symbol of Japanese culture.
Sukajan are usually made of silk and feature embroidered icons such as dragons, local Japanese flora, tigers, geisha portraits, and more. Some animals are substitutes for the military unit to which the soldiers belong. These unique pieces were then brought back as souvenirs to the United States and given away, traded among soldiers, or sold as gifts.
As each soldier incorporates their designs with their own experiences, memories, and creative visions, no two hand-stitched original Sukajans from the post-war period are the same.
The jacket silhouette is based on the classic letterman jacket and baseball jacket, as popularized by high school and university sports teams in 1930s America. Sleeves are usually contrasting colors, and bright colors are often used. This style is a perfect style because it is a blend of American visuals and Japanese life that is thick.
Ametora In Japan: 1950s – 1970s
Long after the troops returned to US soil, Japan became dominated by Ametora (meaning “American tradition”), a term that refers to an obsession and fascination with all things America. The younger generation in Japan at that time was especially inspired by classic Ivy League fashion, adopting jeans, t-shirts and fisherman sweaters as their own.
As style grew in price and popularity, outside working-class youth rebelled against Western-influenced trends. They use local Sukajan as their clothing.
You can read a more complete discussion about Ametora by reading a book entitled: Ametora How Japan Saved American Style by W. David Marx
The Current Development of Sukajan Jackets
Once popular in the United States, and later in Europe, fashion lovers in the Western world are starting to love this iconic jacket. A recent example of its re-emergence as a trend is associated with the layered white Sukajan (with a giant embroidered gold scorpion on the back) that Ryan Gosling wore in Nicholas Winding Refn's film 'Drive' in 2011.
The mid-2010s were arguably the beginning of the Sukajan renaissance, with a massive surge in popularity among fashion retailers and Hollywood celebrities who made the Sukajan jacket their fashion item.
Sukajan is just one example of what Kramer considers the “new vintage”. The new vintage is the production and consumption of fashion whose purpose and appeal is based on a nostalgic connection to past fashion eras.
What You Should Know Before Buying a Sukajan Jacket
You may be confused in deciding between buying a vintage or a new one. For starters, a used jacket is definitely a lot more unique. Especially if it's a genuine military souvenir jacket, every pinned stitch must have a special story for its original owner.
However, vintage jackets have disadvantages besides being more expensive, maintenance is not easy. In addition, also pay attention to the size of the jacket because everyone's jacket size is definitely different.
You should also know that a Sukajan jacket is a jacket designed for style rather than functionality. So make sure to keep your Sukajan jacket away from the rain so it doesn't get damaged quickly. You can choose a Sukajan jacket with rayon material that is suitable for everyday use.
There are several aspects that you need to pay attention to when it comes to caring for a Sukajan jacket because the focal point of the jacket is embroidery.
To avoid fraying/unraveling embroidery, you should wash it on a gentle machine setting, in cold water, with a non-abrasive detergent. Depending on the age of your jacket, and if mass-produced, your jacket should last between two and six seasons of regular wear.
Sukajan Jacket Gallery
Tips for Wearing a Sukajan Jacket
In general, Sukajan jackets are designed to fit your body size. Look for a jacket in a size that fits your posture, with elastic cuffs that are neither too tight nor too loose.
Since embroidery usually takes up most of the jacket, you might consider keeping the rest of the outfit minimalistic. So as not to detract from the attention of this beautiful artwork pattern.
If you are confused about how to mix and match a Sukajan jacket, you can combine a T-shirt with your jeans.
Conclusion
So how? Now you know the early history of the Sukajan jacket? The jacket, which was originally made as a souvenir by American soldiers in Japan, has become one of the fashion items that many people love, especially young people.
Source Reference
- Ozza Konveksi. Fakta Unik Jaket Sukajan Dan Sejarahnya
- Wikipedia. Sukajan