Being a British entrepreneur in Russia, whilst this place is familiar to native Russians is in fact unfamiliar to most foreigners who visit Russia. A few weeks ago, I decided to visit this little unknown gem, only to discover its own Kremlin - which in fact is the smallest replica of it’s kind in Russia. I had decided to visit this place as I was itching to visit a new destination in the surrounding Moscow Region, given the closure of “international borders” - Russia seems to be the perfect place to visit the unexplored countryside, dotted and scattered with historical pickings which tell their unique story - and too on the cheap!
Most locations in Moscow Regions can be reached via the extensive suburban rail network called CSPS or ЦППК in Russian - (Central Suburban Passenger Service).
This township is tucked away between Moscow and Ryazan, and located approximately 2 hours away (notwithstanding the traffic jams) from Moscow and can be reached by bus 330 from Kotelniki bus station. The city only has a bus station, which in fact represents a perfect portrait of a soviet bus stop in the bygone era of the Soviet Union.
On the morning of Saturday 5th August, 2020, I decided to visit this elusive gem, by boarding bus 330 from the bus station. Upon arrival, I was met with the long standing queues (typical for places) however with the added beauty of seeing people with surgical masks, yes, the pandemic isn’t over yet and the Government is taking no chances for a so-called “second wave of COVID”. The bus was fully packed ,with me -being at the tail-end of the queue, barely making it inside. The bus was packed, without standing passengers. Our bus departed around 9:30 and arrived at Zaraysk around 12:30. The bus ticket cost around 400 Rubles, approx. £4.50 single.
With only 1 bus per hour and since my English teaching lesson was starting at 17:30 I was slightly short of time, thereby giving me just 50 minutes to explore this elusive Kremlin. In my opinion, this timeframe is enough for most people.
Zaraysk Kremlin
This is a rectangular fortified citadel, built during 1528-31 by Grand Prince Vasili III of Moscow. The primary reason for its construction was Moscow’s defence against the Crimean Tatars. Upon my arrival I had a sudden desire to visit the toilet, given that I had been “holding it in” for quite some time, as we were held up in the traffic jam and nature has a mind of its own!
Feeling peckish, I decided to visit the only roadside takeaway which was served, freshly cooked Cheburek - a traditional dish with meat filling. I must say, it was one of the tastiest Chebureks I’ve tasted so far, with a cost 100 rubles £0.90 it was an absolute mouth-wateringly tasty and a pure delight.
With a good Cheburek filling, I ventured to the entrance of the Kremlin, only to understand that it is limiting visitors to the museum and upper walkways by prior appointment only, and strictly limited to 15 persons only. Nevertheless I was still allowed on the Kremlin grounds and free to explore the guarded area within, housing a small cathedral, built on neoclassical principles, and a nearby burial site. I do have to say, the entrance of the citadel is grandeur in itself, with its gate cherry topped with a proud crowned split-headed eagle, exhibiting the glory of the Russian Empire.
I spent a total of 40 minutes sightseeing the area, and eventually wandered to a nearby Russian wedding, actually the area is quite a hotspot for Russian weddings, having witnessed a grand sum of 4 weddings in the same location. When I attempted to befriend some of their auspicious guests! I was met with a cold expression, but that I think was partly due to me being a total randomer who just gate-crashed their wedding. I'm sure my reaction wouldn't be altogether different if I was in their position.
As I walked back towards the bus station. I came across several souvenir shops and roadside confectionaries selling their traditional home-baked delicacies. I couldn't help but to buy a “Zaraysk Healthy Cake” filled with walnuts, chocolate chips and freshly baked - I believe an hour before my arrival. Needless to say, the cake vanished by midnight.
Overall Impressions
I would say this is a perfect daytime getaway for an intrepid traveller or a quick family time together. Surrounded by picturesque countryside, one can soak in the breath-taking countryside views and sights of Moscow Region, as well as experience a touch of history, characterising its imperial significance of Russian Empire. There is also a small local restaurant which serves Russian traditional cuisine. The locals are pretty friendly, and welcoming and it's safe to visit on your own. However basic knowledge of Russian language does go a long way. So in my opinion, it’s a must visit place.