Hello, beauties! The spring is just around the corner, and that means the heavy peeling is over :) Goodbye, heavy creams and thick serums! Hello, light textures and gentle peelings! ★
This product was featured in my February skincare empties post, make sure to check that out! ~
I have bought this pack on RoseRoseShop in November. The brand Neulii is manufactured by the company which owns this online store, so it's cheaper and reliable to get there the original product.
I considered at the time that I'm going to use this pad on the warm season, but the winter never came (no snow here this year). So I opened the lid right away when I have received it.
The first thing that caught my eye is the big box and the big lid. I appreciated the minimalistic design, which gives the product a "professional" look and feels.
But don't let the big lid trick you - the pad is littler. Its size is like your usual round cotton pad so that you can use it freely.
The pad has two sides - the one is embossed, and the other one is plain. The embossed side offers a vigorous exfoliation, and you can wipe your T-zone or the surface with big pores and blackheads and whiteheads. The plain side is for a milder experience, destined for all face and neck (yeah, don't forget about the neck too, it has to be clean and pretty).
The ingredient list on the front side of the package is a bold move! This is the main reason why I have chosen this pad in the first place.
The ingredients are EWG-green rated, so that means it won't harm the skin. Also, the ingredients would not penetrate more profound than the skin surface. Check out my article about the EWG rating here.
According to the manufacturer, the concentration of the active ingredients is 5% Gluconolactone and 1% Betaine Salicylate.
Gluconolactone, or PHA (polyhydroxy acid), is an exfoliant, similar to AHA (alphahydroxy acid), but with a decreased penetration on the skin.
Polyhydroxy acids are ingredients such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. They’re supposed to be as effective as AHAs, but less sensitizing. The significant difference between them and AHAs is that PHAs have larger molecular structures, which limits their ability to penetrate the skin, resulting in less potential for sensitizing side-effects. Supposedly, this reduced absorption into the skin does not hamper their effectiveness. Polyhydroxy acids can also function as antioxidants and may promote some amount of improvement in skin’s surface strength.
Betaine Salicylate is the combination of great exfoliant, salicylic acid (BHA), and gentle moisturizer, betaine. It counts as a mild exfoliant and natural moisturizer, skin smoothing agent. It is a component of the white willow bark extract, and it is not a real salicylic acid substitute. Instead, it is a "related substance," at most ideal for reducing inflammation and associated redness, with the bonus of possibly having an antimicrobial effect. Still, it is not going to be the oil-seeking, oil-decreasing, acne-busting superstar that is salicylic acid.
You usually find this component in K-Beauty products, as due to regulations, pure salicylic acid can be used only in tiny amounts in South-Korean formulations. A generally accepted number is that betaine salicylate is twice as gentle as salicylic acid, i.e. a 4% betaine salicylate product is similar to a 2% salicylic acid one.
Honorable mentions: (each with <1% concentration)
Hyaluronic acid - known for its moisturizing, humectant, toning, anti-aging, and lifting effect.
Allantoin - helps to heal wounds and skin irritations and stimulates the growth of healthy tissue.
The plant extracts:
- Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract - enhances the appearance of dry or damaged skin and helps to reduce flaking and restores the suppleness of the skin.
- Camellia Sinensis (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract - acts as an antimicrobial, antioxidant, astringent, emollient, humectant, masking, skin conditioning, and protecting agent.
- Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extract - it is a skin-conditioning, antioxidant, and moisturizing agent.
- Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract - acts as an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agent, removes free radicals very effectively, which helps improve skin elasticity.
- Aronia Melanocarpa (Black Chokeberry) Fruit Extract - it has a potent antioxidant effect, with skin-conditioning and elasticity boosting properties.
I'm content that the manufacturer is so transparent about the product pH (which is 5.5) and the concentration of the active ingredients. Given this data, it's easy to speak about the formulation and the theoretical effects on the skin surface.
Based on the pH level, this product can be considered as a very mild formula. At this concentration and pH level, the PHA acts here as a moisturizer and photoprotection (do not confuse with UV-screen, please!). The betaine salicylate is moisturizing rather than exfoliating in this product (the exfoliating properties are at a peak at pH 5.0 and a concentration of 4%). The hyaluronic acid plays a significant role in this formula, as it thickens the essence from the cotton pads and moisturizes the skin very well. The plant extracts act like preservatives, based on their antioxidant effect. The combination of humectants and emulsifiers, backed up by chelating agents, gives a balanced formula, which will be stable over time, even after opening the lid.
The verdict - it is an excellent toner, especially for dry, sensitive or flaking skin, it moisturizes the surface very well and prep the face for the next skincare steps. This product standalone won't solve the skin concerns, and I strongly recommend using other actives in your routine. It is safe to use in the summertime, don't forget to wear the sunscreen (we're supposed to wear it anyway anytime, duh!)
My point of view - I knew I should not expect miracles from this product, even if I have sensitive skin. I usually have a tight feeling on my face after cleansing. I am glad these pads really helped to get rid of this unpleasant sensation. I have noticed the skin is plumper after wiping the surface (I'm looking at you, small lines on my forehead!). I can't say anything about the exfoliating properties since I have other products with actives in my closet. This pad prep my skin for the essence, and sometimes in the morning, I only apply my moisturizer alone, which absorbs faster.
All in all, I love the Neulii BHA PHA 5.5 Peeling Pads for what they contain and what they do. They contain super clean and beneficial ingredients that do moisturize and gently exfoliate the skin. There’s absolutely nothing bad I can say about those pads. I genuinely have enjoyed this product, and I’d certainly recommend it to everybody interested in chemical exfoliating- regardless of the skin type, as the pads seem to be very gentle. But remember to always patch test any product you buy, to be on the safe side!