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Brewing Cultures: Craft Beer and Cultural Identity in North America (part 4)

Gender Identity

Not only is the overwhelming majority of craft beer people male but masculinity and even virility are significant aspects of craft beer culture.

While many women do drink beer, the association between men and beer is a strong one throughout the United States and Canada.

Not unlike adolescents affirming their gender and sexual identities, members of craft beer groups frequently make sexual jokes, describe certain beers as “girlie,” and generally use beer as proof of their manhood. In this respect more than in others, craft beer groups may resemble “Old Boys’ networks.”

None of this is meant to imply that craft beer culture excludes women or that craft beer men hold degrading attitudes toward women. From an insider’s point of view, craft beer culture is perceived as welcoming and open-minded. Anyone, irrespective of gender or origins, is encouraged to become a craft beer enthusiast. Women who take part in craft beer-related activities, especially as professional or amateur brewers, are often saluted and praised. Yet the mere fact that 7/8 their presence is noticed may reveal the importance of gender identity for craft beer people.

Several craft beer men, in fact, display uxorious tendencies. In some craft beer circles, a brewer’s wife is often called “she who must be obeyed” (through the acronym “SWMBO”), an expression popularized by Australian craft brewer Graham Sanders in reference British television show “Rumpole of the Bailey.” The use of this expression and the overall relationship between a craft beer man and his wife might even be described as fearful respect for, at least, some women.

The negotiation of gender identity is an especially significant dimension of homebrewing and often relates to the gender differentiation of food in general. Brewing is similar to cooking in several respects. Homebrewing especially is often done in the kitchen and often involves cooking instruments and methods. In cases in which the home kitchen is seen as the woman’s domain, a homebrewer may even need to ask for his wife’s permission to use the kitchen. Brewing lore directly associates beer brewing with women. Historically, alewives and other brewsters have been responsible for domestic beer production. Contemporary (male) brewers often acknowledge the importance of women in the history of brewing. Yet the passage from a woman-centric domestic brewing practice to a male-dominated brewing industry and then to an overwhelmingly male craft beer culture rarely seems to represent a continuous process. It is as if male brewers, and especially homebrewers, were saying that despite their presence in the kitchen, they were still men.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, homebrewing often connects with the barbecuing, the most masculine of cooking methods.

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Representing Women

Beer advertising typically targets men and the sexist character of much beer advertisements is an object of discussion in the general population. What might be more surprising is that craft beer culture displays the same gender bias as “macro” beer. For instance, women are represented in craft beer publications as young and attractive waitress-like servers bringing beers to the male craft beer enthusiasts.

In fact, Ale Street News, a national beer newspaper, sells merchandise, including a “Candy Apple Red Thong,“ to what they call the “Beer Goddess.” Their description of the aforementioned divinity emphasizes visual appearance. Beer Goddes Definition” Possessing an inner beauty beyond description, elegance, confidence, poise and a look that will stop traffic on Times Square. A beautiful lady that lets no beer stand in her way and can party with the best of them. Beer Goddesses come in all shapes and sizes! Catch the spirit today!

Physical Appearance

As is typical for middle-aged males in Canada and the United States, visual appearance is rather unimportant for craft beer men. The “bald spot and beer belly” of the stereotype may bring stigma in the general population but they almost serve as badges of honor in craft beer culture. After all, a bald spot is a sign of masculinity and (physical) maturity. The beer belly, though potentially linked to health issues, serves as a sign of a craft beer enthusiast’s love for food.

Beer and Politics

Though part of the abstract for this presentation, political affiliation is not part of the stereotype used as a guide for my description of craft beer culture. Contrary to most other identities negotiated by craft beer people, political affiliation varies from an individual to the next and may represent a source of significant tension. In other words, craft beer culture is neither “conservative,” “liberal,” or “moderate.”

In my experience, craft beer enthusiasts position themselves at different points of the so-called “political spectrum” and political discussions often become quite involved. Groups in which open discussion is the norm often apply, tacitly or explicitly, a taboo on political discussions. While such a conversational taboo may be typical of other groups involving middle-aged North American men, it does not imply that political identities are never negotiated among craft beer people.

Political implications of identity negotiation should be obvious, especially in connection to perceived social class and ethnicity. While craft beer culture supports a relatively homogeneous group of people, political issues unravel important differences of opinion among craft beer people. The political side of craft beer culture may also be seen in the existence of the Brewers Association, a not-for-profit trade association which foresees that America’s craft brewers will . . . be politically influential enough to secure fair legislative and regulatory treatment for craft brewers.” If the craft beer stereotype described here has any accuracy, political influence may, in fact, be a significant part of craft beer culture.

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