Cartier is unique in that it is equally strong in watchmaking and jewelry. The House's jewelers have created so many cult objects that it would be enough for several smaller companies: from masterpieces of haute joaillerie with carved emeralds of Indian maharajas to bestsellers LOVE and Juste un Slouc.
However, the same can be said of Cartier watchmakers. As early as the beginning of the last century, they set the tone for men's wristwatches with the launch of the Santos de Cartier and Tank de Cartier, as well as several impressive ladies' watches. One of them - Baignoire, a true masterpiece of watchmaking design - appeared in the windows of the House in 1912. Innovator Louis Cartier boldly changed the shape and proportions of women's watches, making the classic oval narrower and more oblong. In the 1960s, the model's case acquired a seductive curve that fits comfortably on a woman's wrist and makes it 100% recognizable. At Cartier, this metamorphosis is associated with the free style of the "swinging London".
The Baignoire watch is a miniature version. White gold, diamonds, alligator skin
In recent years, the watch market has been experiencing a peculiar Renaissance: many brands produce watches inspired by their own past bestsellers. Cartier does the same by creating variations on popular historical models such as Tank, Panthère and, of course, Baignoire. Last year, at the International Salon des Hautes Horlogerie Horlogersie (SIHH) in Geneva, the House showed white gold versions of Baignoire Étoilée, Baignoire Infinie, Baignoire Débordante and Baignoire Interdite. In 2019, the collection was replenished again.
We wanted to translate into modern design what Baignoire has always been," says Marie-Laure Cérédédée, creative director of Cartier's watchmaking division. - We have brought this aesthetic benchmark to perfection with a few thoughtful changes. The redesigned Roman numerals in contrast to the dial make a more energetic impression; the back of the case is seamlessly integrated into its overall volume. Baignoire looks like a sculpture carved from a single piece of stone. They are free of unnecessary detail and showcase a solid form, the perfect embodiment of Cartier's style as if it were a one-stroke pen.
The Baignoire watch. Pink gold, diamonds, alligator skin
There are several versions of the model in the collection. The flagship of the line is the exquisite Baignoire Allongée with its hand-wound mechanical calibre 1917 MC. The movement is encased in a pink gold case with a distinctive relief, inspired by the classic motif of the Cloz de Paris (Paris nails), which was introduced at the beginning of the last century. The shape of the "nails" of the relief is subordinated to the movement of the lines of the body: they are larger on the convex bezel and smaller on the side. The dial is paved with 293 brilliant-cut diamonds.
In the less dramatic daytime version of the Baignoire Allongée, the instantly recognizable blue Cartier hands point to the exquisitely stretched Roman numerals of the original design. The watch lies on the wrist as if it were inged; the narrow alligator strap is attached to the concealed lugs. "The Baignoire, while retaining its hereditary aesthetic appeal, looks more dazzling on the wrist than ever before: graphically and sensually at the same time," notes Marie-Laure Cérédép.
In the 1960s, Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider and Jeanne Moreau often appeared in Baignoire. Nowadays, the face of this watch is the actress, director and singer Melanie Laurent, winner of the "Cesar" award. Everything is logical: as Melanie is a worthy successor to the movie stars of the "new wave", and modern Baignoire Allongée inherit the aesthetic canons and tempting appeal of the predecessor models.