The tests carried out on cosmetics are very important because they allow to scientifically demonstrate the effects of the product on the skin and serve as a starting point for writing the indications and general characteristics of the product to be affixed on the packaging.
In order to guarantee and protect human health, the cosmetics industry and the competent authorities constantly implement a series of tests and protocols to ensure the safety of cosmetic products and the absence of serious risks for the consumer.
Three main instruments have been used for this purpose:
- legal provisions;
- tests carried out on a voluntary basis by cosmetic companies;
- surveillance operations.
Safety of cosmetics according to law
Regulation 1223/2009 states that all cosmetic products must be manufactured, handled, packaged and sold in such a way as not to cause damage to human health. Safety requirements are essentially guaranteed through four mechanisms:
- Positive and negative lists of ingredients: substances that cannot be used in cosmetics and those whose use is allowed with particular limitations are negative lists. Those that indicate ingredients that can be used for specific functions are instead called positive lists. These lists must always be listed in specific protocols.
- The indications on the cosmetic product: in this case, reference is made to the INCI, i.e. the list of substances present in the cosmetic in question. The indications on the components of the product must be present on the container in direct contact with the product (primary container) and its possible box (packaging). If the container is small, some information may be available on an instruction sheet, or an attached band or tag.
- The cosmetic product dossier: the manufacturer or the person responsible for placing the product on the market must keep the so-called BIP of the product, i.e. a set of information on the cosmetic, at the disposal of the competent authorities. These include: the qualitative and quantitative formula, the manufacturing method, the chemical-physical and microbiological specifications of the ingredients and much more.
- The correct presentation of the product: the communication of the product must be truthful and not contain information, names, images that are not consistent with the purpose of the product itself.
Efficacy testing of cosmetic products
Any indication of the efficacy of the products must be supported by scientific data. The tests that can confirm the effects of the finished product are:
- Consumer Tests: a sample is prepared for testing by volunteers according to the established timescales and indications;
- Laboratory tests: these are carried out by means of instrumental evaluations that include chemical, microbiological and biological analyses on volunteers.
In any case, these are always final evaluations, carried out on the product ready for sale, which has already passed all the other controls provided for and assessed as safe by the safety assessor. The most common tests include:
Irritation and skin sensitization tests: these tests allow to evaluate the harmlessness of the product, that is, to evaluate whether an ingredient inserted in a finished cosmetic product is able to create irritation or allergies once applied.
Sensory assessments: these are used to determine what the application of the cosmetic subjectively transmits. It must respond above all to the concept of gratification on the part of the consumer in the use of the product itself.
Tolerance of use tests: these allow the tolerability of the product to be verified under the real conditions of use. Volunteers are required to use the product daily for at least 4 weeks, undergoing a preliminary, intermediate and final medical check-up.
There are also other types of tests that assess the chemical and microbiological stability of the product.
Of course, the Ministry of Health and the regional health authorities can carry out inspections at any time in the production plants and, if they deem it necessary, take samples of cosmetic products.
Remember that checks can also be carried out on reports from the consumer himself. So if you have any doubts about the formulation or tolerability of a product, you are entitled to report it!