I had tried it a couple of times, but more than that it did not stimulate me. It seemed to me only a more evolved and selective version of deep-sea fishing. On the other hand, I went many times to see the carpeted friends in action, and in some cases I even forded or gave a little help to keep the post in order. I admit that I was struck by the size of the catches, accustomed as they are (unfortunately) to 20 cm chub or half a kilo crucian carp taken in open sewers.
Then this year the first fish, the meeting while fishing (?) with the faithful minicanna with a carp of good size made me think about the possibility of making catches of good size. And I felt a little bit like trying, but in my own way.
Thanks to a promotion of the usual discount, I bought one of their carpfishing rods. Since I did not understand much about it, but I have a good deep-sea fishing experience, I gave my interpretation (of course economic) of this technique. So here is this simplification, designed to help those who start. It is not “pure " carpfishing, but it is a good basis for taking the first steps towards this modern and fascinating technique.
What do we need?
A barrel (or more), possibly of those specifications (I modified the complete provided by the discount, which I found good quality anyway). Although to try a generic bottom rod can be fine (in my first attempt I even used my most robust spinning rod, and I must admit that it did not fare badly), for intensive use it is not recommended. Without waiting for promotions, almost all brands have an entry level line (beginner) at a low price.
The one found in the set has a pretty light action, but since I don't do intensive use of it and don't need incredible throws for me that's fine. To be precise, it would be on the 2 pounds, has a throwing power of up to 80 grams and since I fish "marginal" (at short distance) is perfect to my needs. If you plan to throw large weights at long distances or fish at long distances or catch huge fish, then choose a model with a higher hovering. I recommend models with rings in SiC (Silicon Carbide), in order to use the braids.
A reel: if we only go once in a while to try, a robust generic fishing or even spinning model is fine; otherwise, it is better to orient yourself on specific models. If you like the technique and decide to buy a reel, choose one with the free reel system (the baitrunner), which will definitely help you. I kept the one included in the set, because it works sufficiently well and has a free coil system that works discreetly well. Important: it can happen sometimes that the free coil system freezes.
In this case to make it work it is enough to take it off, give a couple of turns of crank and then reinsert it. My personal advice is to try to see, after tension the wire, if the coil flows by turning it slightly with your fingers (this way you will immediately notice if it is blocked, avoiding greater damage that could happen in case of departure). Thank you for this explanation Matthew (friend and fellow fishing, as well as administrator of the nice site carp-fishing.too.it).
Of the wire: as a braid is not available to everyone, a good wire of 0.35 can already give a very good margin of safety. Personally, I replaced the thread that I found in the reel with the Ninja mare 0,35 of the Effe line, but for specific use I would strongly recommend the Zebco topic carp (now I have tried almost all topics and I assure you that I have never had problems: if chosen correctly they are very easy to use and reliable). For the terminal I use one 0,30 dichroic (very similar to fluorocarbon) or 12-pound dacron, and for ease of use I recommend the first. For any shock leader, either a 0.50-0.60 or a good braid about 0.35. Be careful to perform the nodes well!
Leads, hooks and swivels-this depends on many factors, and I advise you to look for information from specialists in the field. Personally (with a medium slow current channel bottom 4 meters and a dozen wide) I found myself well with the lead of 40 grams included (which has the advantage of not requiring the shock leader, since it is below the recommended maximum throw limit of 50 grams for 0.35 thread).
I replaced the swivel supplied in the kit with a classic carabiner of the 4 and now everything is in order. For hooks, if you do not have any specific ones, they are all fine from 2 to 8 as long as they are robust. I chose a model not specialized, without eyelet but with a wide curve, to which I crushed the barb, just for the robustness and ease of slamming (so much after release anyway, so even if some fish runs away is fine the same ).
Accessories: do not forget the rags for slamming the fish, the flat nose pliers, the slamator, a scissor and a sturdy landing net. If you like the technique and decide to continue and practice it intensively buy a mat for the slamatura (although I go there twice a year and with friends who are provided, I bought one because I find it useful ). Personally I also have a slingshot in case there is to feed a little'. In total, apart from the landing net, it's all in a very small plastic briefcase. It is also advisable to have a horn and its column for each barrel.
Small note aside for the echo sounder: I found in promotion that too, but I have not yet taken it out of the box. It is forbidden to use it in many places during fishing (in my opinion unfairly), but it is very useful to discover the seabed. So, if you can I suggest you go out once without fishing gear to explore the seabed and mark the “important " points, otherwise if you really need but you can not do a preliminary inspection try not to get caught. Important: the echo sounder (or sonar or fish finder) is very useful to discover the seabed, but in carpfishing is not always suitable to find fish! Translated: if you see points where dozens of fish pass, in most cases there you will not catch anything because it is only points of passage, where the fish does not feed... or you may run into some torpedo (which seems to behave in a way opposite to carp and cyprinids in general).
Total: between barrel and accessories I got away with not even 50 euros, however bringing home reliable material (in a way consistent with my logic at low cost ).
As bait I use canned supermarket corn(and as usual, here it depends on you). Usually to simplify I do not use the hair rig, but I trigger the corn on the hook. However I strongly recommend learning to perform or use the hair rig, as it is the only way to trigger the famous and effective "boiles"“ and it is the basis of pure carpfishing (I learned it, it is not as difficult as you think, indeed).
How to do
If you have the barrel of the discount like me you just remove their terminal, port terminal and replace the swivel and the wire (we can still reuse the removed parts).
Otherwise, if you start from the pieces to assemble the procedure is the classic one, so I do not describe it. I just remember that, if you have the reel with the baitrunner, you have to calibrate two clutches instead of one (I recommend the main one a little below the point of yield point of the wire, and that of the free reel depending on the current of the fishing place)...
Сontinued in 2 parts.