Nowadays, there is just a huge number of HU cars in the automotive market. And if you are considering such a purchase, you want to be sure that this "iron horse" still runs. One of the most important points is the engine (it needs to be checked correctly).
As a rule, experienced snacks wash the engine, giving it almost as a new unit, and mileage can now be twisted quite easily and simply. Therefore, it is difficult for an inexperienced motorist to determine the real state of the car.
Today I will tell you about five tips that will help you to check the car's CU engine in just three to five minutes, without any complicated devices. All with your own hands. Well, let's not drag it out, let's start.
ZOOK
This is the first and easiest way to diagnose an engine. Run it and listen to how it works. Modern gasoline engines should run relatively quietly, especially if they have hydraulic compensators. If they don't, they can run a little louder.
However, there should be no strong knocking, ringing or so-called "diesel" sounds. If such sounds appear, then you need to listen to the motor in more detail (how to do it I already have an article).
The knocking sound that can disappear when the accelerator pedal is pressed. It speaks about a malfunction of a chain, or it has stretched out, or the "tensioner" does not work, or the soothers are worn out, etc. It is not fatal, but it is necessary to change urgently, as it is fraught with consequences.
"Diesel-dipping" sound, which is manifested both at idling and "gas", can be the reason for the wear of the connecting rod and piston group. For example, blocks of cylinders (trivial scoring), or worn liners of "crankshaft". Here the condition is more serious.
Remember - a functional power unit will not knock too hard! And it will work smoothly.
If you are not sure and hear that something is knocking loudly, it is better to refuse from buying such a variant.
MAPP GASES
The topic is big enough, and in one of my previous articles, I said "chewed" it.
This is an important check of the motor condition. Here I will remind you a little bit after the compression rings wear out, they can't hold the compression properly. More crankcase gases can rupture into the crankcase, and the pressure rises accordingly.
If you unscrew the headcover and put it on the neck without screwing it in, the gases should not tip over. That is, it will walk a little (bounce) from the flow of gases. But they shouldn't tip it over. It means that the wear of the walls and rings is not so high and the compression inside the motor is normal.
Also, when you unscrew the cover on the operating motor, lift it up. At idling speed and warmth of internal combustion engines, you should not have a large amount of oil (a couple of drops, maybe), but not a fountain!
Also, blue should not come out of your throat like a smoke silencer, which means that the rings or cylinder walls are worn out. If there's a little white smoke, it's okay, blue - no!
DEFENDER
Diagnostics of internal combustion engines, in this method is banal and very simple. You need to put your finger in the pipe silencer and lead on the walls.
The finger will be a little dirty because the engine is running and still the process of combustion of fuel. It will also be a bit wet because there is condensate in the silencer. But there should not be velvet black soot, which almost falls asleep from the pipe. Or something even worse than oil residue (that is, the finger will be in the oil). If this is the case then the wear of the power pack is very high and should not be taken.
BLUE SMOKE FROM THE SILENCER
Not white, not black (still treatable), but blue smoke. More precisely, if you look at it, it will have a bluish hue.
This check indicates that the piston group or cylinder block walls are already worn out. Removable rings do not remove oil from the walls or it breaks into the combustion chamber, then burns with the air-fuel mixture and goes into the silencer.
By the way, the catalyst suffers a lot because of this. Banal can fail after several thousand kilometers.
OIL CONDITION
Well, the last thing we need to diagnose is the state of the oil.
Pull out the dipstick and look at it. Rub the oil off the dipstick on your fingers. If the oil is light, it is good, so it has recently been changed. If the oil is dark, but without any inclusions, it is normal. However, if there are black or shiny inclusions, it is not very good.
Black people say that bad oil may have been seldom changed, or it was of poor quality.
Shiny inclusions may indicate that the cylinder block walls are worn out or that catalyst particles have entered the oil.
It is also worth unscrewing the headcover and checking the inside of the head of the block, shine a flashlight there, you can even turn on a video with a flash. Then watch this video, if the head of the unit is more or less clean, it means that the oil was poured well and changed more often. If there's a huge oil deposit, it's bad, which means that the engine lubrication was badly watched.
Ideally, calling in a person (or specialist) who has an endoscope is special equipment that can be immersed in the engine. Have him diagnose what is said inside. It will be clear at once in what condition the engine is in.
As you can see, the check is very simple, everyone can do it (even a beginner), you need to spend only 3 - 5 minutes (if not in a hurry), and you will know a lot about the engine, even if you do not have an endoscope.