Cheongsam, the traditional Chinese clothing of Chinese and Chinese women in the world , is known as the Chinese national quintessence and female national service . Although there are still many controversies about its definition and time of production, it is still one of the most splendid phenomena and forms in China's long-standing costume culture.
Cheongsam was formed in the 1920s , and some scholars believe that its source can be traced back to the predecessors of the pre-Qin and Han dynasties . After the 1920s, it became the most popular women's clothing [8] by the Republic of China. The government was identified as one of the national dresses in 1929.
After the 1950s, cheongsam was gradually left out in the mainland, especially in the Cultural Revolution, which was regarded as "feudal dross" and "bourgeois sentiment" was criticized.
After the 1980s, with the traditional culture being re-emphasized in the Mainland, as well as the influence of film and television culture, fashion shows, and beauty contests, cheongsam not only gradually revived in the mainland, but also spread to all fashion places in the world.
In 1984, cheongsam was designated by the State Council as a dress for female diplomats.
Since the 1990 Beijing Asian Games, the Olympic Games, the Asian Games, and international conferences and fairs have been chosen as ceremonial costumes.
On May 23, 2011, the cheongsam hand-made craft became one of the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage approved by the State Council.
At the time of the Republic of China, the term "cheongsam" was eventually popular because the Han women's women's clothing still retains the traditional "small coat" system of the Han women. In addition to aristocratic women's dresses, ordinary women generally do not wear gowns, and the flag girls, whether aristocratic women's dresses or ordinary women's daily clothing, are robe clothes. Therefore, under the subtle influence of nearly 300 years, ordinary people have become accustomed to the historical memory of "women wear robe = cheongsam of the flag", so when the folk cheongsam begins to appear, it will give ordinary people a kind of "cheongsam". Lenovo. In fact, the national cheongsam advocate group does not recognize the name "cheongsam", but "just ask it to be a long-sleeved shirt, long coat or robes, mixed with male clothing. On February 27, 1926, Shanghai "Republic of China Daily" has a short essay. "The robe is not a flag", it is proposed to be renamed "Chinese robe." Some people have proposed to call it a robe, but in the end, it is still called cheongsam ."
According to the textual research on the appraisal of "cheongsam" and "robes": in the official documents, letters, official documents and school textbooks of the Republic of China, although there is a clothing that is consistent with the style of "cheongsam", there is no "cheongsam" title. Use the term "women's dresses - clothes" and more. Therefore, the title of "cheongsam" is not an official title, but a popular name from the folk custom.
The fifth type of cheongsam is derived from the skirt. In January 1940, "Liangyou Pictorial" described the evolution of the short skirts through the cheongsam vest, which eventually formed cheongsam. The scholars of the Republic of China, Cao Juren and Li Yuyi, also held the same view.
The sixth type of woman wearing cheongsam is the result of deliberately imitating men's dress and being obsessed with the equal rights of men and women.
Cheongsam concept
"Cheongsam" refers to the cheongsam that appears in the Republic of China, or the definition of the cheongsam concept, including the cheongsam of the flag, or the cheongsam of the flag. It is quite controversial in the academic world like the cheongsam origin.
As is known to all, during the Cultural Revolution, the cheongsam was regarded as a symbol of "four olds", "sealing, capital, and repair". The study of cheongsam became a restricted area in academic circles. It was only after the reform and opening up that the study of cheongsam was in the mainland. The academic world has gradually increased.
In the early days after the reform and opening up, based on the "Chinese nation is a family" policy advocated by the government, and in order to prove that the cheongsam has a long history and noble origin, the study of cheongsam is a scholar's conscious intention to compare the relationship between the folk cheongsam and the Qing Dynasty flag man costume. Connected to each other. "The concept of cheongsam, including the robes of the Qing Dynasty flag or the gown of the flag, is not particularly special, but it is also a self-contained one.
For example, there is an annotation about cheongsam in "Ci Hai": "Cheongsam, a costume worn by the Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. They are not open on both sides. The sleeves are eight inches to one foot long. The edges of the clothes are embroidered with colorful green. The Revolution of 1911 Later, it was accepted by Han women and improved to: straight collar, right oblique opening, tight waist, long clothes to the knees, open on both sides, cuffs small."
For example, Yu Feng’s point of view: “Cheongsam, as the name suggests, refers to the robes of the women of the Eight Banners before and after the Qing Dynasty’s Manchus entering the customs, that is, the uniforms of the women outside the country with Manchu as the main body... This cheongsam is mainly popular in the north, and the majority of women in the South still Following the custom of the Ming Dynasty, wearing a long captain and a long skirt
Another example is Yuan Jieying's point of view: "The flag holder's dress is different from the military uniform, usually a robe, ... has always been a simple straight body as the basic style, all called cheongsam." "Cheongsam is unisex clothing in the Qing Dynasty." However, there is a slight difference in the style of wearing. The official system and the civilian use distinguish between materials and accessories .
However, the concept of "cheongsam" includes the view of "the robes of the flag people" or "the robes of the flag women" in the Qing Dynasty, which has been questioned in the academic world from the beginning. "In the vast literature of the Qing Dynasty, the word 'cheongsam' never appeared. In the Qing Dynasty, the banner people called themselves to wear robes for the flag or flag, and the mandarin was called 'clothing'. The cheongsam as a The words with specific meaning appeared, first seen in 1918, Shen Shou narration, Zhang Rui's transcript of "Snow 宦 谱 》": 'Ten three: big stretch used to embroider the side of the cheongsam, so that the side stretched.' The cheongsam is used as a specific term for some kind of embroidered clothing."
The main point of view in today's academia is that "cheongsam" refers to the national cheongsam, which matured during the Republic of China and formed a more stable form of women's gowns. The following are representative views:
In his book "History of Ancient Chinese Costumes", Zhou Xibao said: "The robes of Manchu women... This robes began to be extremely lenient, and later gradually changed into a small waist, which is close to the eve of the Revolution of 1911. This robes, Later, it evolved into one of the main costumes of Han women, which was later called the cheongsam.
