On the official American website Nivea you can find a loud statement: "More than a hundred years ago we invented modern skin care by creating Nivea Creme. The cream is based on the discovery of lanolin alcohol, an emulsifier called Eucerit. Indeed, when it appeared on the market, the white cream in blue puck became synonymous with the moisturizing cream for a long time. It is hardly possible to name a more popular cosmetic product, and with one mention most of us can immediately present a characteristic aroma. But is Nivea cream valuable today (except for nostalgic)? We deal with a cosmetic chemist.
Standard base for moisturizing cream - no surprises here. Water comes first, mineral oil second. Mineral oil is a working occlusion, which, however, surrounds a lot of myths: it is supposedly "uncleaned", and "harmful" and "carcinogenic". In one of the previous analyses, we have already said that mineral oil undergoes several stages of purification, during which the content of harmful impurities in it is excluded. Besides, cosmetic mineral oil is considered to be one of the safest, most effective and hypoallergenic moisturizing components.
Next on the list is Cera Microcristallina, a microcrystalline wax. It acts as a structure-forming agent and an emulsion stabilizer. It is safe and approved for use in cosmetics.
Another perfectly standard humidifier, glycerol, is followed by a kind of star composition, lanolin alcohol. It is in Nivea cream that it was used for the first time. This component is still considered to be a distinctive feature of the composition, although today it is used in many other cosmetic products. Despite the word "alcohol" in the name, this component does not dry and irritate the skin, and even vice versa, as it is oily. Fatty alcohols help to retain moisture in the skin and soften it.
Next comes another wax - paraffin (it differs from the finer crystalline wax with larger crystals in the structure). And then there are a number of emollients and stabilizers - among them Magnesium Sulfate, Decyl Oleate and others. Citric acid has been added as a pH stabilizer, and Benzyl Benzoate, a proven and safe preservative, acts as a preservative.
Active ingredients
Panthenol
Nivea cream is not rich in inactive ingredients. In fact, it is the only one here - it is panthenol (vitamin B5). Panthenol is a good humectant - it can attract and retain moisture in the skin. It is also known for its restorative properties. Applying panthenol cream to cracked skin, wounds and abrasions will speed up healing.
But then, as part of Nivea, we see the reason why it may not be advisable to use it on irritated skin. And that's why it's a perfume.
A perfume
Limonene, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Citronellol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Parfum.
Although the smell of Nivea cream has been associated with the "usual" cream without any additives since childhood, in fact, a whole aromatic composition is responsible for this pleasant powder aroma. There are both fairly standard lemonen and geranium, and the rarer Cinnamyl Alcohol, which contains extracts of Peruvian balsam and cinnamon. This ingredient, like Hydroxycitronellal, can cause an allergic reaction in people who are sensitive to perfume components.
Technologist's opinion
Nivea cream is a good example of reverse emulsion. The direct emulsion is oil in water and the reverse is water in oil. This emulsion has more oil in it, which means more occlusal functions. They "lock" moisture in the skin, creating a barrier on its surface. Creams with occlusal components are usually thick and quite oily. The best way to lock the moisture is to use good old Vaseline. It reduces transepidermal moisture loss by 99%. Other common ingredients are oils (grapeseed, shea, jojoba, sesame, etc.), lanolin, silicones, waxes. Actually, Nivea is a classic cream with occlusal properties. The basic recipe is time-tested. In principle, it is suitable for winter for dry and combination skin.