In the cold season where wind and sand smog often occur, modern people choose to wear masks for the same time. There is no mask in ancient times. What should I do if I encounter wind and sand? As early as the pre-Qin Dynasty, the ancients had designed a female "mask" with a masking function, and later invented a more fashionable X ("" under "off"), a hat and so on. In addition, the ancient sleeves and towel can also come in handy...
The "dress" has been worn in the pre-Qin period.
The ancients used the "equipment" to deal with the smog of the wind and sand. Ming Tulong "In Beijing and friends" said: "Yan City with a face dress, riding a yellow horse, the wind is full of dust and dust. Return to the next horse, the two nostrils are black as smoke."
According to Tu Long, the climate in Beijing was very bad during the Ming Dynasty. The dirty weather such as dust and smog was serious: people riding horses on the streets of Beijing wore tops and the dust was blown up by the wind. After returning to the next horse, I found that the two nostrils were as black as the chimney.
The top coat was the earliest inventor of the Chinese to protect the face. The early coat was designed for women. The custom of wearing a face dress has already appeared in the pre-Qin period. "Book of Rites inside" has this saying: "When a woman goes out, she must cover her face." At that time, women had to cover their faces when they went out. Although this "coverage" requirement is based on the consideration of the "ritual" advocated by Confucianism, it unexpectedly plays a role in avoiding the smog of the wind and sand, and can also keep warm from the cold.
Having a facesuit has become a must-have for women of identity in the Qin and Han dynasties. According to Han Liu’s "Xijing Miscellanies", Han Cheng Emperor Liu Yu's singer Zhao Hede, after his sister Zhao Feiyan became a queen, one of the high-end luxury goods sent by him, there is a "Jinhua Violet Topcoat".
The Jinhua Violet Top is made of purple leno and embroidered with gold flowers. Such a dress, when the gift to the Queen's sister is naturally very decent. The masks used by the folk women are relatively simple, usually made of ordinary cloth yarn. Considering the need of the package, the width of the mask is wider, so there are "big towels" and "big towels". Called the law.
This kind of face is very large, and the knees can be covered when worn on the chest, so it is also called "bashing the knees". In the Western Han Dynasty, Yang Xiong’s "Dialects and the Fourth" is called "Bounded knees, and the Jianghuai between them is called the shackles, or the shackles. The Wei and Song dynasties between the South and the Chu said that the 'big towel', since the customs of the things called the 'baked knees', Qilu The suburbs are called ''."
After the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the popular "big towel"
The mask is actually a large square towel. It is covered on the head when used and fastened with a strap. The use of the noodle can be seen from the interpretation of the Eastern Han Dynasty Liu Xi's "Release the Name and Release the Clothes": "Hey, cover, too, so the front of the knee is also covered, the woman is also covered with knees. The towel, the Tianjia women came from the field to cover their heads, so they thought it was also famous."
"Xiaoerya·Guangfu" said: "The big scarf is called power." What is "power"? It is the "throwing thing" of the ancients.
The use of "over the head" has made the noodle another name for the "covering head". The "red hijab" of the bride in the later marriage customs has thus evolved.
The face dress is a women's dress. After the Wei and Jin Dynasties, men can also use the face coat when they travel in winter. "Jin Shu·Emperor Ji" records: the first year of Jianwu (AD 304), Jin Huidi Sima was robbed by the general Zhang Fang to Chang'an, "the line of Xin'an, the cold is very, the emperor and the horse are injured, Shangshu Gaoguang enters the face Clothing." Sima wants to get this shelter from the wind, don't mention more happiness, but also praised the highlights.
Compared with the past, Wei Jin's function of covering the dust with the back coat is more prominent, and the performance of the cold is weakened. At this time, the tops are often cut with thinner leno. Due to the thin and transparent surface, the face is easy for outsiders to see, and the fabric is mostly made of black roving with better shielding effect.
Jin Ganbao's "Sou Shen Ji" records such a pair of gods and couples, his wife is very beautiful: "The quality is elegant, the age is 18, the saponin, the waist, the no powder, the hair Zefei net, radiant photos." The "saponin head" here is covered with a black mask.
The coat was also called the "face cap" in the Song Dynasty. Song Gaocheng's "Things of the Past", Volume III, "The Crown, Jewelry, Hat, Cap, Hat": "There are also facials, the front and the back are all used for the sagging, the miscellaneous color is the four belts, hanging on the back, for the woman to travel For the use of horses, it is also a 'face cap'."
The masks of the Ming and Qing Dynasties are more design, practical and ingenious. Judging from the drawings contained in Ming Wang's "Three Talents' Meeting", the masks of the Ming Dynasty were mostly made of thick fabrics, and the middle opening was partially adorned with black yarn.
At the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, I was wearing X
In ancient times, it was better to use a mask than a general one to shield the sand. The X is very long, which can cover the face and block the body.
X is a sand-blown equipment that was first invented and widely used by ethnic minorities in the northwest and north of the windy weather. The Hurenfan must use X when riding on a cold day. Judging from the records of the "Sui Shu Tu Gu Chuan Biography", it is still the identity of the nobility, and the "Wang Gonggui people wear more X".
Probably after the Wei and Jin Dynasties, X was introduced to the mainland, and wearing X was among the women of the Northern and Southern Dynasties. The Southern Dynasty Liang Wujun "and Xiao Washing Ma Zixian Ancient Poetry" (5) said: "Y ("" under the "calendar") hanging Danfeng, shake the white group. Who can see this for a long time, hate not see ""
But soon after the early Tang Dynasty became popular, X was replaced by a more convenient cap. From the time of Li Zhi (Tang Gaozong) as the emperor's Yonghui period, women traveled to choose Dai Mao's hat. When Li Zhi's queen Wu Zetian changed his administration, the wearing of X was extinct and the hat was in a pandemic.
Song Dynasty likes to wear " Cap"
What is the hat? It should be inspired by X, which is made up of the mature hat, which is made up of rattan mats and hats with a gauze. When a woman goes out, she can play a barrier role, and it is more fashionable and beautiful than wearing X.
Song Gaocheng's "Things of the Past", Volume 3, "The Crown Jewelry, Hats, Caps, Hats", said: "The people of this world often use soapy yarns, and the whole frame is adorned with oil caps or shackles. The service, cover this."
Because the skull cap is thinner, it can be worn not only in winter but also in summer. The skull cap appeared in the Sui Dynasty. When the famous painter of the early Tang Dynasty, Li Liben, wrote "Zhaojun's Sai Tu", he might consider the northern wind and sand, and specially added a hat to Wang Zhaojun. As a result, many people pointed out that this was a failure because there was no hat in the Western Han Dynasty. Tang Zhang Yanyuan’s "The Famous Paintings of the Past Dynasties" said: "There is a smashing cap of the public painting Zhaojun. I don’t know that the wooden sword was created in the Jin Dynasty, and the () hat was in the national dynasty."
The difference between the skull cap and the squatting cap is that the gauze hanging down from the cap is shorter, only to the neck, and does not have a large shielding area like the squatting. Therefore, compared to the sturdy package of the squatting (the squatting of the word), the sash hat is "dressing, and the neck is quite shallow", which is a very sexy design in modern times.
However, the conservative ancients believed that it was not appropriate for women to wear a cap and a neck-necked nude. However, because the fashion queen's Wu Zetian did not object, her emperor's hat became a popular model soon, and was welcomed by the "public and private women" at that time. This is the so-called "Old Tang Book·": "After the day, the hat is big, and X is getting better."
Because the hat has a good masking function, the Song Dynasty, which emphasizes ritual teaching, is once again popular. In Sima Guang's "Yi Shui Family Instrument", he reiterated the requirements of the pre-Qin people: "When a woman is out of her own body, she must have her face. The male servant has no shackles and has a big reason, and does not enter the middle door. The woman will avoid it. It must be avoided, and it will cover her face with her sleeve."
The Yuan Dynasty used the "towel"
Some scholars have inferred that this is a proof that the Chinese invented masks and took the lead in wearing masks. In fact, this is not the same thing. The phenomenon of "small mouth and nose with a towel" is not unique to the Yuan Dynasty. It exists after the invention of the towel, and it is a towel. If you have to connect it with a mask, you can think of this "scarf" as the prototype of modern masks! (The paper version of this article was first published in the 2016.01.08 "Beijing Evening News" supplement "Five Color Soil" literature and history version Ni Fangliu exclusive column "one side hook Shen")