Grape pruning is one of the most difficult activities in the countryside. Sometimes it is difficult to figure out how to cut grapes correctly and when.
Cutting a grape bush comes down to trimming 90 percent of the vine, leaving the necessary number of eyes (kidneys).
Let's consider in detail the secrets of correct pruning of the vine from the first year of planting.
Content:
Structural features and names of parts of the vine
Grape bush formation
-- Video - Grape Peeling Bush
Grape formation in the first year
Grape formation for the second year
Grape formation for the third year
-- Video - Grape trimming step by step
Grape trimming can be done both in spring and autumn. When cutting in autumn, it is advisable to cover the bush for the winter, protecting it from freezing. If your region has severe winters, trim in spring or cover the vines for the winter. By the way, uncircumcised grapes can better tolerate winter.
Structural features and names of parts of the vine
The base of the stamp, which is underground, is called a heel, and its roots grow from it.
The strain is part of the stem before the first lateral escape, as in all trees. At the grapes, a part of the stamp is also underground and ends with a heel.
The head is a thickening on the main stem from which the side shoots depart.
Sleeves (shoulders) are side shoots leaving the main stem. And the eyes on them are the same kidneys.
There are terms to remember: fruit arrow and substitution bitch.
A fruit arrow is a long cut sleeve, on which 8-12 kidneys are left after trimming.
Replacement knot - short sleeve, 2-4 peephole after trimming.
Fruit link - a pair of shoots consisting of a replacement knot and a fruit arrow. We have understood all the names and will pass on to the secrets of grape trimming.
Formation of grape bushes
There are a huge variety of options for the formation of a vine. Let's stop at the most simple and clear form - shoots are allowed to grow not vertically, but horizontally.
Video - Grapes Bush Pruning
https://youtu.be/04DISJsFOB4
Grape formation in the first year
In spring, 2 of the lowest buds are left on the central shoot, the rest is cut off. Of them grow 2 shoots, and tie them in different directions.
Late autumn, when all the leaves fall off, you can't do it before, otherwise the grapes will run out of juice, shortening the shoots. One escape is left short, leaving 2 buds, the second escape is left long, leaving 4 buds. Remove the vine from the trellises and cover it for winter.
Grape formation for the second year
In spring, after the threat of severe frost passes (early April), remove the shelter and tie the vines to the lower wire trellises, the tops in different directions.
Stems growing from the buds are allowed to grow vertically upwards or with a slight inclination away from the centre of the bush.
In autumn, after the leaves have fallen off, the long sleeve is cut off leaving 2 shoots. The sleeves will become the same. Then cut off the vertical stems: those closer to the center and down the main stem, cutting off the 2 buds. It will be a substitution knot.
Vertical stems further down, leaving 4 buds to be cut - these will be fruit arrows. We take off the vine and cover it in winter.
Grape formation for the third year
In spring, after the frosty weather has passed, the vines are taken off the shelter. Tie the long fruit arrows to the lower wire of the trellises horizontally, with the tops in opposite directions.
Leave the replacement knots to grow vertically. During the summer, stems will grow out of all buds. At the beginning of August, emboss the stems by 10-20 cm. This will increase the quality and quantity of berries.
Do not emboss before August, otherwise there will be a lot of seedlings on the vine.
In autumn, after the fall, cut off the extreme 4 vertical shoots with a part of the sleeve.
As a result, each shoulder will have one link with two vertical shoots. They will be trimmed in the same way as in the second year. Escape close to the center to cut off 2 buds, leaving 4 distant buds.
All the following years of growth of the grape bush, to carry out pruning in the same way as in the third year.
Attention: For more reliability and stock, more buds can be left on the shoots, but no more than 10 per bud. This is done in case of frost damage.
For example, the optimal number of 3 kidneys on the replacement knots and 6-7 kidneys on the fruit arrows. In spring, if all the buds have survived, the excess buds can be cut off.
Video - Grapes Bush trimming
https://youtu.be/04DISJsFOB4
Here are the main secrets of grape pruning in the autumn, the observance of which will be the key to obtaining a quality and high yield of berries.
When and how to plant grapes in autumn and spring
Rarely can you find a summer cottage or a garden without grapes. Many gardeners and gardeners enjoy planting and growing this plant. To be successful at home, it is necessary to use a quality and healthy seedling, choose a suitable place, prepare the seedling and the planting pit and, of course, to carry out the direct procedure. Let's consider the rules and features of planting a seedling and a grape cutter in autumn and spring.
Content [Hide]
1 When to plant grapes in spring and autumn, in which month
1.1 Landing time in spring
1.2 Landing time in autumn
2 When it is better to plant grapes - in spring or autumn: advantages and disadvantages
2.1 Advantages and disadvantages of spring procedure
2.2 Advantages and disadvantages of autumn procedure
3 How to select a grape seedling for planting
4 Step-by-step instructions for planting grapes in spring and autumn
4.1 Choosing the right location
4.2 Preparing the planting pit
4.2.1 A clever pit: what is it and whether it should be done
4.3 Preparing a seedling
4.4 Direct boarding
5 Grape planting in different regions
5.1 In Siberia, in the Urals, in the Leningrad Region
5.2 In the Middle Band (Moscow Region)
6 How to take care of a grape bush after planting
When to plant grapes in spring and autumn, what month
So, you decided to plant this berry crop on your site, but do not know exactly when to plant a sapling of grapes in autumn and spring, in what month? Let's get to the bottom of this.
Planting times in spring
Optimal planting time in spring will be determined by the temperature conditions - the air temperature will be more than 15 degrees Celsius, and the soil temperature is more than 10 degrees (to find out t, you can simply insert a thermometer into the soil. Choosing when to plant a cut or a sapling of grapes, it is necessary to focus on the weather and climate features of different regions:
In the South (Krasnodar Krai (Kuban), North Caucasus) the procedure can be carried out at the beginning and middle of April;
in the middle zone (including the Moscow region) - in the middle of May;
In the Leningrad Region, in Siberia, in the Urals - in late May or early June.
You can also choose the best time for the procedure with the help of the 2019 Lunar Calendar:
The most favorable days are April: 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26.
Unfavorable days for landing:
in March - 6, 7, 21;
Landing time in the fall
The most favorable month to plant grapes in autumn is October. The event can be held from the first days of the month.
By the way, the best time to plant grapes in autumn is when the air temperature is no more than +15 degrees and no less than +5 degrees.
Planting time of grape seedlings should not be too late. It is not necessary to postpone the event and wait for the first frosts. Otherwise, there is a risk that the seedling will not have time to take root, because of this it is possible to freeze the roots and the death of young shrubs.
Also, do not conduct the procedure at a rapid drop in temperature. If it has been carried out, it is necessary to make a safe shelter for the shrub.
In autumn it is possible to plant grapes in the South in the second half of October, even in the beginning of November, in the Middle strip (Moscow region) - in the beginning, in the middle of October, in the Leningrad region, in Siberia, in the Urals - in the end of September.
When to plant grapes - in spring or autumn: advantages and disadvantages
Many dacha owners, who have set themselves the goal of establishing a culture on their plot, wonder when it is better to plant grapes in spring or autumn. This can be done in both the first and the second case.
Advantages and disadvantages of spring procedure
There is no risk of frost in spring, so there is no need to be afraid that the seedlings will die due to freezing temperatures.
In warm conditions, the seedling adapts faster, takes root.
After snowmelt, the ground is filled with moisture and nutrients.
Shortcomings:
It is harder to find a quality seedling of the right variety (as a rule, they are bought in autumn, so many vintners buy them in advance).
In spring, there is already too much trouble and it is difficult to make time for the procedure.
At this time, not only nature wakes up, but also pests, the cause of disease, so you need to carry out preventive treatments.
You can never rule out the risk of age-related night frosts, which can have a negative or even devastating effect on a vulnerable seedling.
Advantages and disadvantages of autumn procedure
With regard to autumn planting, you should be aware of the positive and negative aspects of rooting at this time:
Advantages of autumn planting:
the opportunity to choose beautiful, healthy seedlings;
A wide selection of different varieties;
During the event in the autumn, in spring, there is free time for other dacha activities;
During this period, the land is regularly wetted by the rains, which makes it possible to reduce the number of irrigations;
It is easier for the seedling to take root, as the difference between air and soil temperature is small;
It is believed that autumn saplings are more enduring.
Shortcomings:
There is a possibility that the young seedling will not have time to take root and will be frozen due to severe winter;
Sudden cold spells can not only have a negative effect on the plant, but can even kill it.
Knowing both positive and negative moments, you can choose the most optimal and convenient option for you.
https://youtu.be/TorKW0Ywt78
How to choose a grape seedling for planting
You should know that there is:
A vegetative seedling is a cut (also known as a chugbuk) that has been planted in early spring, and by the time it is planted, it has already grown leaves (which is why it is a green seedling).
An old-timer seedling is a one-year-old bush, which was dug up in the autumn and left for storage in damp sand in a cool room.
Quality planting material is the key to good survival, successful growing and fruiting in the future. Therefore, a grape seedling with the following parameters should be selected for outdoor planting in spring and autumn:
It should have a normally developed root system and three to six young roots. The length of the heel roots should be at least fifteen centimetres.
The plant should have green shoots on the trunk with a length of 15-20 centimeters.
The optimum length of the seedling is 40-55 centimetres and the thickness is at least eight millimetres.
It is also important to examine the buds, strains and roots, all of which should be healthy, without damage.
Video: How to choose a seedling.
https://youtu.be/x4Q1NNnoTQ8
Step-by-step instructions for planting grapes in spring and autumn
The technology of planting grapes with seedlings requires taking into account certain nuances and following step-by-step instructions. At first glance, the rules of planting may confuse with their complexity and multistage, but in practice everything is much simpler. But the main thing is to follow the instructions and scheme of the procedure in spring and autumn. Then you can study the necessary information and try in practice.
Choosing the right place
Before starting the event, it is necessary to choose a suitable place for planting grapes in the garden. The success of the crop and the yield depend on it. Therefore, when choosing a place, you should pay attention to the following nuances and conditions:
Planting in swampy soils and lowlands is excluded.
Do not plant on the north side of the plot.
It is not acceptable to have a place blown up by strong winds and draughts, especially if the winds are on the north side.
The most ideal place to plant grapes is in the garden on the south side, which is fenced with a wall or dense hedge.
It is not possible to choose shady places, for example, if you are too close to trees, buildings or fences.
Do not choose a place near fruit crops. When planting, the distance between grapes and fruit crops should be at least four metres!
The soil is a very important criterion when choosing a place. The soil should be fertile, loose, with good moisture and breathability. But don't be upset if you don't have such land on your plot, because you can prepare the soil for planting and create normal conditions for a seedling. If the soil is sandy or stony, you should put humus in the planting pit, and if the soil is peaty or clayey, you should add a drainage layer to the bottom of the planting pit (e.g. crushed stone, claydite).
Video: tips for choosing the right place.
https://youtu.be/8b_gC13M870
Preparation of the planting pit
Preparation of the grape pit starts two to three weeks before the event. If the procedure is carried out without preliminary preparation, the soil will eventually settle and consolidate, which will make the bush fall below the required level.
In order to properly prepare the pit for planting grapes, you should follow the following scheme:
The first step is to dig out a square hole for planting: its depth and width should be about 80 centimetres.
Divide the excavated soil into two parts: one part should consist of an upper layer of soil and the other part of the remaining excavated soil.
At the bottom of the pit there is a drainage layer (you can use crushed stone, gravel).
Then you have to prepare a filling for the fertiliser pit: the topsoil is mixed with two buckets of humus, 500 grams of superphosphate and a kilogram of wood ash.
The next step in preparing the soil for planting grapes will be to place the filling in the pit. Sprinkle a small layer of fertile soil on top of the fertiliser so that the roots are not burned. There should be a distance of about 50 centimetres between the fertiliser and the ground.
Fill the hole generously (if the soil is heavily subsided, you can fill the soil to the same level).
Let the pit stand like this for about two weeks. During this time it will settle down.
A clever pit: what is it and whether it should be done
Some dacha owners make a clever pit before planting a grape seedling. What does this mean? A clever pit means that there is a drainage layer and a coarse layer for deep watering.
To create a pit for planting with a pipe, it is necessary to apply fertilizer to the pit as described above, and pour a drainage layer of about 10 centimeters thick from above (you can use claydite, gravel, crushed stone). After that, you should install a watering pipe. Most often for this purpose use an asbestos-cement pipe, but you can also use other material, the main thing is that its diameter is 10-15 centimeters. Choose the length of the pipe in order for it to protrude ten centimeters above the ground surface. Place it on the edge of the pit. It is recommended to cover the end of the pipe with a lid so that it does not become clogged and does not serve as a trap for all kinds of animals.
Although the technology has fans, its concept is often criticized. According to experienced gardeners, this method of grape planting has undeniable disadvantages: the drainage layer and the pipe will prevent the growth of roots, and watering through the pipe is often troublesome, and the creation of a clever pit requires unjustified effort and time.
Video: features of the pipe for watering.
https://youtu.be/hPt8EIWlWc8
Preparing a seedling
Before starting to prepare a grape seedling in spring and autumn, it is necessary to examine it carefully. If you have found any mechanical damage, mold, lesions, then, alas, this specimen is not suitable for rooting.
You can prepare a grape seedling for planting in spring and autumn according to the following scheme:
It is necessary to boil the water and cool it down. Place the seedling in cool liquid for about 24 hours. If desired, you can use a root-soaker (e.g. to soak the roots in Rhizome's solution).
After you remove the seedling from the water, check the roots for damage.
Remove the roots at the top of the seedling and cut the roots at the bottom by two centimetres.
Then you should cut the escape a little (leave three to four eyes on it from the base of the escape).
Treat the seedling with preparations to prevent diseases and pests.
Video: How to prepare a grape seedling for planting.
https://youtu.be/LSCiO_byBQU
Direct boarding
Planting grapes at home is done according to this scheme:
Choose a suitable place, prepare a planting pit and seedlings according to the instructions in the paragraphs above.
Pour a small pile of soil from the top of the fertile soil to the bottom.
Above this pile, carefully place the seedling and spread the roots. They should be evenly distributed at the bottom of the pit.
Then the pit should be carefully filled with soil.
After that, pour three buckets of water on the planting site, and if you have several shrubs planted, watering should be done under each shrub.
After watering, cover the seedling with a plastic bottle (cut off the bottom of the seedling beforehand). The bottle should be slightly deepened into the ground
Following such a simple step-by-step instruction on the correct planting of grapes in the autumn and spring, you will be able to successfully establish a plant that will give you the most delicious berries in the future. Even a novice gardener and vintner will be able to plant the grapes on his plot.
Video: Pit preparation and outdoor planting in autumn.
https://youtu.be/Shte84IhFIA
The recommended distance between the seedlings during planting is about one or one and a half meters in a row. If you plan to plant a lot of seedlings, it is wise to plant future bushes in the trench. The trenching technique requires trenching in the same way as in the case of a conventional pit.
Video: features of the trenching technique.
https://youtu.be/pTYqsgd5NiI
Planting grapes in different regions
Beginners and experienced winegrowers are found in almost the entire territory of our vast country. In different regions of the country climatic conditions differ, so follow the peculiarities of planting.
In Siberia, in the Urals, in the Leningrad Region
Many gardeners find it difficult to grow crops in these regions because of the cold and frosty winter conditions. However, previously, successful grape growing in Siberia, the Urals and the Leningrad region seemed impossible. But now, thanks to the zoned varieties and many years of experience of dacha farmers growing crops in cold regions, it is possible to successfully plant seedlings in autumn and spring and to grow and harvest safely in the future. This is possible even for beginners vintners. The main thing is to follow the following rules:
For planting in the Urals, Siberia, and the Leningrad Region, it is necessary to choose zoned varieties (early ripening varieties such as Sibrirskaya Cheremushka, Dyumovochka, Pinocchio, and Mystery). Otherwise, the harvest will not have time to ripen.
After planting in autumn and every year to make a thorough shelter before the cold.
It is recommended to plant in spring, not autumn. Since the autumn planting is a risk that the seedling will freeze and die.
In the Middle Stripe (Moscow Region)
Planting of grapes with seedlings in the middle zone (Moscow region) is very common. Due to climatic conditions, it is better to choose varieties that are unpretentious and frost-resistant.
Planting and growing a crop in the Middle Stripe should start with early maturing varieties. This is especially true for beginners in horticulture.
How to take care of a grape bush after planting
After planting in the open, the grapes are in particular in need of timely and regular care. It will help the plant to adapt more quickly to the new conditions, will stimulate adaptability and speed up the fruiting process.
In the first year after planting the shrub, the following measures should be included in the care:
Watering. In order for the grapes to take root normally in the open after planting, it is important to water them properly. However, it is not recommended to do this too often, it is sufficient to water it once a week.
Shelter. In the first year after planting, it is very important to cover the vines in the autumn before the winter cold, however, it should be done in the future. Often the usual land is used for sheltering: it is necessary to dig a trench near a sapling (depth of about 20-25 centimeters), to carefully put a shoot in a trench, to sprinkle the earth, to deepen in the ground pegs which will help to distinguish a place of sheltering. A couple of layers of film or tarpaulin are placed on top. This method is more suitable for the southern regions and the Middle Stripe. It is also possible to hide without using the ground: place the shoots on sawdust, hay, cover with material that does not allow moisture to pass (polyethylene, tarpaulin) from above, fix the material with brackets or something else.
Cutting. It is especially important in the first year, because it allows air and moisture to reach the roots of the plant better. Dig carefully to avoid damaging the roots.
Garter. In spring, tie the plant's shoots to the trellis. Garter should be carried out until the moment when the leaves and new shoots begin to appear. Thanks to the correct garter you can increase the amount of harvest, prevent the vines from being hit by diseases and pests, and will be more convenient and easier to engage in the formation of the bush.
Growing grapes is a noble and rewarding task. Isn't it wonderful to watch the ripening of a sunny, sweet berry, and then enjoy its taste together with the whole family and friends? To know all these joys, it is necessary to plant the grapes in the open soil at home in spring and autumn. I hope this article was useful for you!